How to restore a Danish chair - Arne Hovmand-Olsen - Stage 1 - cleanin

How to restore a Danish chair - Arne Hovmand-Olsen - Stage 1 - cleaning & oiling

Graeme Matthews August 18, 2025

A before and after shot of a Danish chair by Arne Hovmand-Olsen chair requiring restoration

Stage 1: treating the wood

This is a guide to how I restore Mid century chairs to their former glory.

In the workshop I have set of 8 Teak Danish chairs which require restoration. They are a classic Danish design by Arne Hovmand-Olsen and are very sought after.

I have a real affinity to this design. Back in the 1980's we had a set of these chairs. They bring back a lot of memories. I grew up on a set of these chairs.

When purchased I was aware that two of the chairs required re-cording. On closer inspection it was clear that all 8 chairs required new cord. Several, despite appearing intact, were actually held together with wax and staples. A previous owners efforts to stave off a total collapse.

So this is the 1st chair having had most of it's cord cut away.

Arne Hovmand-Olsen Dining chair. With its cord cut away.

Not Looking too bad?

Well actually take a closer look...

Close-up of the back of an Arne Hovmand-Olsen Dining chair showing dirt and marks.

Pretty grubby actually. Dirt, grease and paint. It needs removing

Cleaning & Oiling

So 1st step is to remove the dirt.

Here is the method I apply. But there are many other methods out there and peoples views on this can be quite polarising... What I like to do is to apply oil at the same time. I do this by mixing oil with my cleaning agent. I can't remember where I learnt this method. It's probably like my cooking. A whole lot of menus jumbled together with some intuition to boot. So here's what i use:

1. 000 wire wool or a fine abrasive synthetic pad

2. D.Limonene or Citrus Turpene

3. Osmo Oil

4. Protective gloves, mask and eye wear.

5. Clean white cotton rags

For cleaning I like to mix 2 parts Citrus Terps with one part finishing oil.

I use Citrus Terpene for several reasons.

Firstly it has good cleaning properties gently lifting the dirt from the wood.

Secondly it is a good cutting agent for the finishing oil. When applied neat I find the viscosity of the oil too thick. For the first one to two coats I like to mix it with a cutting agent to improve its viscosity. This aids its penetration into the wood. Too thick it mainly sits on the surface only to be wiped off before it becomes tacky. A waste of an expensive product!

Thirdly it has low toxicity (according to most info available) unlike most other cutting agents. It also smells great unlike most other foul solvents. Any lingering odour is actually pleasant! But still only use in a well ventilated area and wear protection.

Osmo Polyx Oil. Its a great product that is easy to apply and gives a good finish. Definitely the best oil I have used. It comes in a range of finishes from matt to gloss. It also has a reasonably neutral odour.

If using steel wool it is advisable to wear a mask and eye protection to avoid the dust and debris as the wool degrades. Especially when used dry for burnishing. Also do not use if opting for a water based finish as micro remnants of steel could cause rusting in the finish.

The Process

Mix the Terpene and Oil in a ratio of 2:1 in a clean jar with a lid and shake to combine. Mix in small amounts. 30ml/60ml or less even. There's little more annoying than when you knock over your jar and spill all of its contents...it happens too darn often. So the less you mix the less is potentially wasted.

Grab a handful of wire wool. Its much better off the roll as you can choose the size you want and fold it and use like a pad in the palm of your hand. Pour a little bit of oil into your steel or synthetic pad and get to work. It takes a lot of elbow grease to get it done. The dirtier parts may need several goings over. Replenish the pad with oil as necessary. Once an area has been worked over for a few minutes wipe completely clean with a cloth. Then go again or move to the next spot. You can always come back to an area that needs more work. Its good to work in rotation. This chair took nearly an hour to clean.

I would work an area about the size of a 1/3 to 1/2 of the back of this chair. Don't take on too big an area.

Generally it is a given that you work with the direction of the grain. But as you are using a fine abrasive this isn't imperative. Circular motions can work well when cleaning. Finish with a motion that works with the grain.

Replenish the wool periodically as it wears out.

Aftercare is required as any cloths/wool used in the restoration are a potential fire risk. Soak any throwaway materials that have been used with the turpene and oil in water and then leave out to dry before discarding.

Once cleaned leave for at least a couple of hours before adding a second coat. I use a 2:1 oil to turpene mix or use neat oil. Apply with a piece of rag or better still a polishing rubber. If you have time leave for 24 hours. Apply a third coat if required. A finer finish may be acquired with a very light rub back with extra fine 0000 steel wool or high grade abrasive pad 400 grit or higher. Prior to final coat. Wear protection if using wire wool.

I always thoroughly wipe off the oil within 5mins of application with a clean cloth. Despite instructions to the contrary. The only time I might leave the oil to dry naturally is on the first pass and the wood appears particularly thirsty. Failure to do so can result in a tacky finish. If this occurs re oil and immediately buff the oil off with a clean cloth until completely dry.